Most of a normal used-car check still applies — but a used EV has a few extra things worth checking that a used petrol or diesel car doesn't, and a couple of normal checks that matter less.
Battery health
This is the single most important EV-specific check. Ask the seller for a recent State of Health (SoH) or capacity report — many EVs can show this through their own companion app, and it's a reasonable ask even from a private seller.
- What's normal: a healthy used EV a few years old typically shows a SoH somewhere in the mid-80s to low-90s percent. See our battery health guide for what different SoH numbers mean.
- Red flags: no report available, a report with no date on it, or a range that looks dramatically lower than similar used examples of the same model and age.
- If you want more certainty on a higher-value purchase, a Bluetooth OBD-II dongle with a model-specific app, or an independent EV diagnostic service, can read deeper battery data than the dashboard shows.
Service history & software
- Full service history, including any recall work and proof it was completed.
- Software/firmware update history — EVs receive over-the-air updates more often than combustion cars, and a car that's badly behind can mean missed bug fixes.
- How the car was mostly charged: mostly slow/home charging is gentler on the battery long-term than frequent DC rapid charging, though this matters less than outright SoH.
- Any notes of recurring warning lights or reported battery/high-voltage system issues.
Charging equipment
- Check the charging port for bent pins, corrosion, or cracked plastic, and open/close the charging flap a few times to make sure it isn't sticking.
- Confirm the cables included match what you'll actually use — a Type 2 cable for public/home charging, plus any manufacturer-specific rapid charging adapter if relevant.
- If at all possible, do a real charging test on the test drive or before you complete the purchase — plug in at a public charger or the seller's home charger and confirm it charges at a normal rate.
Tyres, brakes & suspension
EVs are heavier than equivalent combustion cars and deliver power instantly, which wears tyres faster and unevenly if the previous owner drove hard. A full set of EV-rated tyres plus an alignment can run into four figures, so this is worth checking closely, not glossing over.
- Good signs: even wear, EV-rated tyres (look for reinforced/"EV" or high-load-rating markings), recent manufacture date codes.
- Red flags: bald inner edges (can indicate alignment issues), mismatched tyre brands across the car, or budget non-EV-rated tyres fitted to save money.
- Brakes on an EV get used less than on a combustion car, thanks to regenerative braking — light surface rust that clears after a short drive is normal; deep grooves, heavy rust, or a pulsing pedal are not.
Warranty & paperwork
- Confirm the original in-service date so you can calculate exactly how much battery and drivetrain warranty (typically 8 years) remains.
- Check for a clean title/history — accident damage, write-offs, or outstanding finance, same as any used car purchase.
- Get a written list of everything included: cables, adapters, spare keys, and any charging accessories.
On the test drive
- Listen for clunks or grinding at low speed in a car park, then check for wind noise or bearing hums at motorway speed.
- Check regenerative braking feels smooth and predictable, not jerky or inconsistent.
- Test all the electronics — windows, mirrors, seats, infotainment screen responsiveness — and check for random reboots.
- After the drive, ask for (or run) a warning-light scan to catch anything not visible on the dash during a short test.
None of this replaces an independent inspection for a car you're seriously considering — for anything beyond a small purchase, a pre-purchase inspection from an EV-experienced garage is worth the cost.